Top Weight

I am interested in getting some knowledgeable opinions on the importance of topweight in a ball.

I have heard varying schools of thought, but predominantly, good drillers I have asked feel there is little or no importance in amount of topweight.

Thanks.....Max
 
Top weight is manufactored into a bowling ball simply to balance out the ball after drilling the gripping holes and to provide a means for ending up with either positive or negative side, finger and thumb weight by offsetting the grip against the true center of the weight block. Flipping a ball 180 degrees and drilling into the bottom of the ball would have the exact same effect. After all, top weight becomes bottom weight during each revolution and vice versa.

With today's exotic coverstocks and asymmetrical cores, the effects of static weight imbalances is minimal at best.

disclaimer:
But I could be wrong....
 
Personally, I have found that balls with alot of top weight seem to go a little bit longer. But all in allnot enough to worry about.

Also I remember a girl that came to bowl here from Adelaide, bowled backup for 3/4's of the lane then the ball started to hook a little. When we weighed her ball (a white dot) it had 2 1/2 ounces bottom weight. Very weird to watch.

Rob
 
My opinion (if you consider me knowledgeable and competent enough)

The main significance of top weight these days is being able to match it up with the appropriate pin distance in order to lay out the ball in such a way as to match up with the bowler and the condition. IE, its no good having high top weight and a 4-5 inch pin if you want a pin down rev leverage layout for a high speed. low rev player, conversely you dont want a high top weight 0-1" pin ball for a player who wants a pin out layout. It is probable in these situations that it won't be possible to layout the ball properly, even with a weight hole (at least not a legal one). This is where great care has to be taken to choose the correct pin/top weight combination for the player involved. This is where your coach/ball driller needs to have the knowledge and expertise to make the correct choices.
IN the case of mass bias balls, this is even more critical, given the mass bias component in the layout and its affect on ball reaction. If the top weight is too high in relation to the pin distance, then some layouts may not be possible, restricting the options in laying out the ball.
 
Within reason, a ball with 'good' pin placement specs as long as the ball doesnt have a 'blem' top weight, any competent driller is able to vary the depth of the finger/thumb holes to change static weight properties.

Generally with a ball, I target 0-0(ish) for finger/thumb, and 3/4 for side, to give me the option (but not the need) to stick an XH anywhere along, as well as either side of the VAL to change ball roll as needed. Want more flare? an inch past the Val will help with that. How about more midlane roll? lets lower the RG properties of the ball, by going along the VAL, anywhere under the bowlers PAP!

To give me all these options, I look for 1.5-4.5 inch pin, and a 1-4.5oz top weight, and I can make it do what the customer is looking for, by simply drilling the finger holes deeper or more shallow for different pin placements. Its amazing how much weight a 31/32 drillbit can take out, when its going an inch furthur into a core, and there is 2 fingerholes to be drilled :D

And im spent....
 
Within reason, a ball with 'good' pin placement specs as long as the ball doesnt have a 'blem' top weight, any competent driller is able to vary the depth of the finger/thumb holes to change static weight properties.

True, however it is far and away preferable not to go too deep with finger holes in order for them not to meet at the bottom hence weakening the bridge. Besides, anything with 4+ oz top weight and overly long (or short) pins does limit options. And its not just a matter of widening the bridge as that can have a detrimental effect on the fit and feel of the ball to the customer.
 
wchester said:
Flipping a ball 180 degrees and drilling into the bottom of the ball would have the exact same effect. After all, top weight becomes bottom weight during each revolution and vice versa.

Wayne,

Top weight and bottom weight will behave exactly the same only if the track is exactly parallel to the gripline, or you have a full roller that track through the grip centre. This is not normally the case for most bowlers.

Robbie.
 
Actually, I had a friend who bowled thumbless back in the 90's who drilled a reactive ball on the bottom of the ball, attaining 3oz of bottom weight. This ball went loooong and then arced up smoothly with a pretty crisp hit. It was something!

Topweight is approximately 10% of ball reaction these days. Not a great deal, as pointed out by a couple of folks. It can effect carry substantially however. As to how, it depends on the player and the surface.

Drilling holes deeper can reduce topweight, but will also slightly decrease RG in an asymmetric fashion. Drill deep enough in all grip holes and you can substantially reduce the DiffRG effect as well. I supect this is a function of the reduction in overall RG, but you can take a noticable bit of punch out of a ball this way.
 
With today's exotic coverstocks and asymmetrical cores, the effects of static weight imbalances is minimal at best.
disclaimer:
But I could be wrong....
Addendum to my last post.

I used to think the same thing, then I drilled a Storm jolt with 4.2ozTW and a 5" pin. I wanted some length and flip, but YOW!! I laid it out to go longish and arc up. Instead it's massive! Strong move off the spot and huge continuation (probably because of the 1"x3½" deep weight hole making a new mass bias). Top weight is once again a major decision for me with new gear.

p.s. The Jolt is a great ball (I take it everywhere but league where it plain bounces off the dry outside the block on 10 board), but not the look I was after initially. It gave me, well, a Jolt!
 
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