Scotch Brite
- Thread starter nev25
- Start date
rychenroller
Active Member
I get maroon and white pads from Wurth Australia
Rarely use them anymore though.
Rarely use them anymore though.
Scotchbrite still has a place... but mainly on particle, or pearl balls that I want to leave the polish off of.
Why pearl balls? Pearl balls have added mica particles to them, to give them the pearlized effect. Mica particles do create more friction when exposed to the lane from what I have seen. Abralon/Siaair and sandpaper tend to knock, or cut these particles down. Scotchbrite tends to remove the resin, but keep more mica in the exposed surface. With a "duller" pearl ball, I have found that it is harder to throw the ball through the breakpoint. It tend to read the friction harder, without the over-under.
Of course, your mileage may vary...
I usually only use burgundy or grey pads... Because, as Mo Pinel has been known to say "Green pads belong in the kitchen"
Why pearl balls? Pearl balls have added mica particles to them, to give them the pearlized effect. Mica particles do create more friction when exposed to the lane from what I have seen. Abralon/Siaair and sandpaper tend to knock, or cut these particles down. Scotchbrite tends to remove the resin, but keep more mica in the exposed surface. With a "duller" pearl ball, I have found that it is harder to throw the ball through the breakpoint. It tend to read the friction harder, without the over-under.
Of course, your mileage may vary...
I usually only use burgundy or grey pads... Because, as Mo Pinel has been known to say "Green pads belong in the kitchen"
rychenroller
Active Member
Hey Andrew,
Good point, that is the opinion I have been given in the past. The other point made is that Scotch Brite work well dry. The Saair get clogged easy without water. I would have thought Abralon would be the same and loose its grit level quickly.
The NEAT pads look ok.
What about looking at the Turbo 2N1 Sandbagger?
But good topic, Scotchbrite I have struggled to find locally and would still be my choice due to it working dry. Buddies Pro-Shop list a set of Scotch Brite pads on their site.
Good point, that is the opinion I have been given in the past. The other point made is that Scotch Brite work well dry. The Saair get clogged easy without water. I would have thought Abralon would be the same and loose its grit level quickly.
The NEAT pads look ok.
What about looking at the Turbo 2N1 Sandbagger?
But good topic, Scotchbrite I have struggled to find locally and would still be my choice due to it working dry. Buddies Pro-Shop list a set of Scotch Brite pads on their site.
granat
Total Bowlerer
I still use the white, grey and burgandy ones but as Andrew said only on particle balls. Most industrial supply type shops will have them but you may have to get them ordered in and be prepared to purchase a carton (about 24 A5 sized pads).
I like the SIAAIR pads as they tend to last longer than the Abralon
I like the SIAAIR pads as they tend to last longer than the Abralon
Toon
OWN IT!
I am going to put that comment in the memory bank. what a great point. I have never considered that at all.
GeorgeF
Hypercell = Hyperhook!
Mate that makes no sense.... Balls out of the box represent the best grip and best reaction, the more we use them the less effective they are (hence the new age cleaning and re-resurfacing options we have). Each ball that is released represents different cores, covers and physics, adjusting the surface straight out of the box does nothing but alter the balls natural characteristics. To resurface a bowling ball and expect it to be consistent with other balls purely because of the surface adjustment is not correct. You have to remember each ball is unique, yes cover represents 80% of ball reaction but cores, drillings, bowling styles still play a big part
My advice, leave them box.... Only change them if you need to
My advice, leave them box.... Only change them if you need to
agreed. it is the reason you have multiple balls and i grade my gear accordingly to box. all i require is maintenance periodically to get the finish. i have always done this and it works best IMO. i only change it on the run or go to low grit or abralon under a polish to rejuve an older ball to get the finish in line with the grading of my gear across all the balls i own if that makes sense.
granat
Total Bowlerer
Important to remember that when using scotch brite to stick with the brand name (the scotch brites are made by 3M I think). They are manufactured to a standard that will provide a particular surface finish. Your garden variety coloured ones from the supermarket might look like scotch brites buit you have no way of knowing what sort of surface finish you're getting.
Whenever I do a full resurface I take it back to the box condition (or as close as a spinner will get to it) and then make minor adjustments from there as required.
Andrew's right, you can never recreate the OOB condition with a spinner (I'm not sure even a HAAS will do it) but after about 15-20 games the OOB condition is gone anyway
Whenever I do a full resurface I take it back to the box condition (or as close as a spinner will get to it) and then make minor adjustments from there as required.
Andrew's right, you can never recreate the OOB condition with a spinner (I'm not sure even a HAAS will do it) but after about 15-20 games the OOB condition is gone anyway
While I respect your opinion George, do you realize how much a ball changes over the course of 3 games? Box finishes certainly give you a great surface, but can you create a 1000grit surface, THE EXACT way the factory does?
Now this isn't a knock on George being left handed, and having a lower rev rate, because I'm almost positive he will go longer before he notices more changes, but I found this very interesting.
Now. what causes these changes? Friction of the lane? Ball rolling around in the pit/ball return?
If I find a great reaction with say, 2000 grit, which is the OOB finish on a lot of balls, I want to get it back to 2000 grit, not bowl the next week with 4200 grit (why has my ball become over-under? It was great 2 weeks ago) because of the lane surface "burning" the cover. Now, while that 2000 grit isn't EXACTLY like the factory surface, I KNOW I CAN DUPLICATE IT.
I actually have a log of the surface changes on my gear... So I know the steps to get it back to where I had it.
Now this isn't a knock on George being left handed, and having a lower rev rate, because I'm almost positive he will go longer before he notices more changes, but I found this very interesting.
Now. what causes these changes? Friction of the lane? Ball rolling around in the pit/ball return?
If I find a great reaction with say, 2000 grit, which is the OOB finish on a lot of balls, I want to get it back to 2000 grit, not bowl the next week with 4200 grit (why has my ball become over-under? It was great 2 weeks ago) because of the lane surface "burning" the cover. Now, while that 2000 grit isn't EXACTLY like the factory surface, I KNOW I CAN DUPLICATE IT.
I actually have a log of the surface changes on my gear... So I know the steps to get it back to where I had it.
Nighteyes300
Member
While I respect your opinion George, do you realize how much a ball changes over the course of 3 games? Box finishes certainly give you a great surface, but can you create a 1000grit surface, THE EXACT way the factory does?
Now this isn't a knock on George being left handed, and having a lower rev rate, because I'm almost positive he will go longer before he notices more changes, but I found this very interesting.
See the you tube video above!!!
Now. what causes these changes? Friction of the lane? Ball rolling around in the pit/ball return?
If I find a great reaction with say, 2000 grit, which is the OOB finish on a lot of balls, I want to get it back to 2000 grit, not bowl the next week with 4200 grit (why has my ball become over-under? It was great 2 weeks ago) because of the lane surface "burning" the cover. Now, while that 2000 grit isn't EXACTLY like the factory surface, I KNOW I CAN DUPLICATE IT.
I actually have a log of the surface changes on my gear... So I know the steps to get it back to where I had it.
Two distinctively different approaches to ball surfaces from two distinctively different bowlers. Both valid points.
Good points by all.
I have to say I absolutely love bowling in the modern era. Look at the technology and understanding you need to have these days to compete.
Years ago, all balls were pretty much the same and as long as you were accurate you would win. These days you can have a substandard shot and still score well by having a good understanding of your own game and equipment. That alone makes bowling better for all types of bowlers compared to pre-modern core/surface era, also known as pre 1990.
I do have an argument point that I have had a number of times when discussing this topic, there is a lot of talk about surface, yes it is critical, but as George mentioned, it is not everything. I have made the mistake of drilling balls without really understanding my own game, end result is a ball that you can’t use and changing the surface does nothing to fix the fundamental ball layout errors. Of course my biggest issue is still user ability, but that is another topic all together.
Do I believe that surface is the first consideration when choosing a ball? No.
The same way as a house needs a good foundation, the ball core needs to be laid out to suit the bowlers release specifications so that the ball will function and give the reaction required. Then adjust the surface to give the fine tuning of when on the lane the ball starts up once friction is seen.
Some people will drill all their bowling balls the same way and use the surface to make the difference. End result is the roll shape will be the same but the starting point of the direction change(hook) will be at different lengths down the lane. This would be the choice I would make if I only ever bowled league in one centre on the one condition.
Others will choose different layouts for a different roll shape and then adjust the surface to suit the condition on the fly. This is typically what a tournament bowler will do. Where different roll shapes are required.
Both of these concepts are valid depending on whether you only bowl in one centre or bowl in many different centers.
A good example, I have two identical Columbia balls, both with the same surface, both drilled differently, one is a Rico the other is standard 1:30 leverage drilling. If surface is the most critical piece in the puzzle and is the only consideration, then both balls should roll the same way. Reality is that they don’t react the same way, or hook the same amount, the roll shape of each is different.
Best option, seek out the experts and get your release specification on paper, then layout your equipment to suit your needs. Finally adjust the surface to suit the conditions you bowl on.
Again, good topic, lots to be understood and plenty of personal opinions, just like mine here, we will believe what we want and do what suits us best.
I have to say I absolutely love bowling in the modern era. Look at the technology and understanding you need to have these days to compete.
Years ago, all balls were pretty much the same and as long as you were accurate you would win. These days you can have a substandard shot and still score well by having a good understanding of your own game and equipment. That alone makes bowling better for all types of bowlers compared to pre-modern core/surface era, also known as pre 1990.
I do have an argument point that I have had a number of times when discussing this topic, there is a lot of talk about surface, yes it is critical, but as George mentioned, it is not everything. I have made the mistake of drilling balls without really understanding my own game, end result is a ball that you can’t use and changing the surface does nothing to fix the fundamental ball layout errors. Of course my biggest issue is still user ability, but that is another topic all together.
Do I believe that surface is the first consideration when choosing a ball? No.
The same way as a house needs a good foundation, the ball core needs to be laid out to suit the bowlers release specifications so that the ball will function and give the reaction required. Then adjust the surface to give the fine tuning of when on the lane the ball starts up once friction is seen.
Some people will drill all their bowling balls the same way and use the surface to make the difference. End result is the roll shape will be the same but the starting point of the direction change(hook) will be at different lengths down the lane. This would be the choice I would make if I only ever bowled league in one centre on the one condition.
Others will choose different layouts for a different roll shape and then adjust the surface to suit the condition on the fly. This is typically what a tournament bowler will do. Where different roll shapes are required.
Both of these concepts are valid depending on whether you only bowl in one centre or bowl in many different centers.
A good example, I have two identical Columbia balls, both with the same surface, both drilled differently, one is a Rico the other is standard 1:30 leverage drilling. If surface is the most critical piece in the puzzle and is the only consideration, then both balls should roll the same way. Reality is that they don’t react the same way, or hook the same amount, the roll shape of each is different.
Best option, seek out the experts and get your release specification on paper, then layout your equipment to suit your needs. Finally adjust the surface to suit the conditions you bowl on.
Again, good topic, lots to be understood and plenty of personal opinions, just like mine here, we will believe what we want and do what suits us best.
The way I look at it...
Core Dynamics = Engine
Layout = Tuning to get the right Horsepower and or gear ratios
Surface = Tires
In motorsports, you don't want silly amounts of horsepower on a wet track, with slick tires.. Just like on a dry track with long straights, you don't want short gear ratios, where you'll be hitting the rev limiter on the straights, and rain tires, that you will burn up...
There is more than one way to skin a cat in this game, but having the correct equipment makes the job easier.
Core Dynamics = Engine
Layout = Tuning to get the right Horsepower and or gear ratios
Surface = Tires
In motorsports, you don't want silly amounts of horsepower on a wet track, with slick tires.. Just like on a dry track with long straights, you don't want short gear ratios, where you'll be hitting the rev limiter on the straights, and rain tires, that you will burn up...
There is more than one way to skin a cat in this game, but having the correct equipment makes the job easier.
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