Adrian the best advice ball drillers can give to a bowler who wants to set up a ball for a SPORT condition is, LESS is MORE
By that I mean bowlers should be looking at a low flaring drilling which is not going to over react. The less flare, the more the ball rolls on a contaminated surface (by that I mean the ball doesn't flare and rolls over the same track). That means when it hits the backend it has oil on the track and will tend to gain less friction and offer a more controlled turn to the pocket (because there is oil on the track and it can't grip the lane as well). The more the ball flares, the more the dramatic backend reaction because it is rolling on a non contaminated surface (so friction to the backend is at it's maximum, hence why you see heaps of lines (4-10) on a track instead on 1-3).
If you could imagine a spinning top, when it first spins it wobbles before it finds it's axis (this is like flaring). At this point the top moves around. When it finds it's axis and is spinning properly, it remains in the one position.
The type or stregth of ball won't come into play too much, perhaps a stronger new release for the guys who don't throw much hand (like me), anything reactive, proactive for everyone else. All reactive and pro active have at least a light bulb weightblock which will be more than enough on a SPORT pattern.
If you want the ball to turn earlier, SAND IT! If you want length, POLISH IT! It's not rocket science (which if you ask the ball reps they will tell you it is).
Use a decent ball, don't let it flare to much and over react and make good shots. It's a simple formula, and its' guarenteed to work.
G
