Leverage vs label drilling
- Thread starter mickyd213
- Start date
jason_doust
The Bowling Geek
With the exception of pin over bridge, the label layout is dead. It doesn't clear the heads well and doesn't give much backend as it puts the pin in grip and the Mass Bias (MB) too far from the Positive Axis Point (PAP) and makes the ball roll like a tyre. It was ordinary to lousy in urethane days and hasn't got better since as today's cover stocks just magnify how cruddy this layout is. It's a way to get a customer out the door quickly and I don't use it. Some pro shops still offer it in the states as a cheaper service, proving that you get what you pay for. If you want to save ten bucks on your ball layout, don't get the ball. Sorry to sound so negative. I just think label drillings are nonsense/intellectually lazy.
Until everyone in the world has the same ball track, any layout that relies on putting "the pin near the finger hole" is guesswork. Find a driller who will measure your track and PAP and map the pin and MB in accordance to these important dimensions.
Leverage drillings (where the pin is 3 3/8" or 45° from the PAP and MB is a similar distance) are good if your speed dominates your rev rate or you just want a ball to pick up really early. If you have normal speed and a decent release, I'd recommend staying away from leverage as it will regularly hook and stop with today's equipment (even if it's polished.) Move the pin out to about 4½" from the PAP with today's covers. It's pretty much the new leverage.
I would recommend (45° / 3 3/8") leverage for people who throw the ball hard with a lower rev rate and need a piece on oil with slick backends that will keep the roll alive longer. I wouldn't do it with an asymmetric cored ball.
Hope this helps,
Jason
Until everyone in the world has the same ball track, any layout that relies on putting "the pin near the finger hole" is guesswork. Find a driller who will measure your track and PAP and map the pin and MB in accordance to these important dimensions.
Leverage drillings (where the pin is 3 3/8" or 45° from the PAP and MB is a similar distance) are good if your speed dominates your rev rate or you just want a ball to pick up really early. If you have normal speed and a decent release, I'd recommend staying away from leverage as it will regularly hook and stop with today's equipment (even if it's polished.) Move the pin out to about 4½" from the PAP with today's covers. It's pretty much the new leverage.
I would recommend (45° / 3 3/8") leverage for people who throw the ball hard with a lower rev rate and need a piece on oil with slick backends that will keep the roll alive longer. I wouldn't do it with an asymmetric cored ball.
Hope this helps,
Jason
tonx
New Member
Whilst I understand the terminology "Label drilling" it is about as relevant as "pin at 1-30" or "give me max finger and side weight".
There is also no fair or real way to directly compare any 2 different layouts. Each layout is unique, and has it's own benefits and downfalls.
There is also no point anymore, in getting 6 balls and drilling them all the same. This is because it is the layout combined with the balls RG and Differential values that gives us the amount of flare for the ball, and how quickly it migrates through its axis.
The most important thing first, is to find the bowlers Positive Axis Point or PAP. This will tell you how to place the pin to control the angle of the core. Once you have found the PAP, you can use the following guide.
Pin on PAP - This uses the balls lowest RG value and also the most stable position the ball can be placed in. This is also sometimes called a 0 pin to pap, and places the core at a 0degree angle
Pin is within 3 3/8ths away from the pap - The closer the pin is to the pap, the less overall flare the ball will produce. As you move away from 0, and get closer to 3 3/8ths, you increase the flare potential. A ball with a 2inch pin to PAP will generally roll fairly early, and quite smooth, if all other variables are similar.
3 3/8ths is exactly 1/8th a bowling ball diameter, and as such places the core in exactly a 45degree angle, its most unstable position possible. This is the only possible position away from the PAP that can be called Leverage. Anything else anywhere else cannot and should not be called Leverage.
As you move the pin furthur away from the PAP, the flare starts to reduce again. The difference between a 2 inch pin to PAP and a 5 inch pin to PAP, is the 5 inch position uses a higher core RG value, allowing the ball to conserve its rolling energy until furthur down the lane. The maximum one should place the pin away from the PAP is 6 3/4 (which is a 90 degree core to PAP angle) for risk of reverse flaring.
There are other variables to take into consideration to decide a layout (balance holes, pin height, High RG axis placement, bowlers revrate, speed, axis rotation) But all other variables are completely useless until you know the bowlers PAP.
All the best.
There is also no fair or real way to directly compare any 2 different layouts. Each layout is unique, and has it's own benefits and downfalls.
There is also no point anymore, in getting 6 balls and drilling them all the same. This is because it is the layout combined with the balls RG and Differential values that gives us the amount of flare for the ball, and how quickly it migrates through its axis.
The most important thing first, is to find the bowlers Positive Axis Point or PAP. This will tell you how to place the pin to control the angle of the core. Once you have found the PAP, you can use the following guide.
Pin on PAP - This uses the balls lowest RG value and also the most stable position the ball can be placed in. This is also sometimes called a 0 pin to pap, and places the core at a 0degree angle
Pin is within 3 3/8ths away from the pap - The closer the pin is to the pap, the less overall flare the ball will produce. As you move away from 0, and get closer to 3 3/8ths, you increase the flare potential. A ball with a 2inch pin to PAP will generally roll fairly early, and quite smooth, if all other variables are similar.
3 3/8ths is exactly 1/8th a bowling ball diameter, and as such places the core in exactly a 45degree angle, its most unstable position possible. This is the only possible position away from the PAP that can be called Leverage. Anything else anywhere else cannot and should not be called Leverage.
As you move the pin furthur away from the PAP, the flare starts to reduce again. The difference between a 2 inch pin to PAP and a 5 inch pin to PAP, is the 5 inch position uses a higher core RG value, allowing the ball to conserve its rolling energy until furthur down the lane. The maximum one should place the pin away from the PAP is 6 3/4 (which is a 90 degree core to PAP angle) for risk of reverse flaring.
There are other variables to take into consideration to decide a layout (balance holes, pin height, High RG axis placement, bowlers revrate, speed, axis rotation) But all other variables are completely useless until you know the bowlers PAP.
All the best.
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